Alpe Adria Cycle Path: Salzburg to Grado

Day 1: Salzburg

Having spent the days before exploring Vienna and its grand, wedding-cake streets, Salzburg was a welcome change. The pace of life feels more relaxed and I love the natural elements of the town: imposing hills topped by Hohensalzburg Fortress, the icy blue Salzach River, and flowers absolutely everywhere. Not so great for my hay fever, although a highlight was sneezing and hearing a passer-by say, in all seriousness, "Gesundheit!" Salzburg is also where the Alpe Adria Cycle Path begins, a self-guided e-bike ride to Grado on the Adriatic coast.

I'm a big fan of parkrun, and my trip happened to start on a Saturday, which meant I could explore the local course (my wife would say I planned the entire trip around this Saturday run). The Hellbrunn parkrun was mostly visitors, and I got the feeling one group of English runners had come to Salzburg purely to tick it off. Parkrun tourism: it's a thing! And what a course. It runs through the grounds of Hellbrunn Palace, home to the gazebo from The Sound of Music.

The hotel was stunning and a cool retreat from the summer sun. My welcome briefing was at 7pm, so it was nice to relax in the air conditioning after a day exploring the Mirabell Gardens, the Stiegl beer garden and the Getreidegasse, home to Mozart's birthplace. I met Marco, the local representative, who took me through the navigation app, my upcoming accommodation and the route. Then he introduced me to my e-bike. It was heavy and powerful, and we were going to have some good adventures together.

Day 2: Salzburg to St Johann im Pongau

My first day on a cycling adventure, in a foreign country, by myself. But not completely alone. UTracks provides a navigation app loaded with your itinerary, the day's attractions highlighted and an overview of the ride ahead. It was really helpful to sit down at breakfast and plan my day. The Pongau Cathedral in St Johann: I'll see it from the outside. Hohenwerfen Fortress with its eagle flying demonstrations: noted!

What a breakfast it was, too. Bain-maries of sausages, bacon and eggs, a selection of cereals (I've never taken to the German habit of mixing muesli and chocolate), pastries and an enormous jar of Nutella. With one of the tougher rides ahead, I ate guilt-free. This is one of the perks of an active holiday.

Cycling for beginners

What do you call an injured runner? A cyclist. I'd usually choose a hiking trip, but a slight shin niggle meant I was giving cycling a go instead. As my first proper cycling trip, it was quite intimidating. There's a lot for an outsider to take in: road rules, nutrition, mechanics, gear. Would fellow cyclists look down on me if I didn't stop for espressos every so often?

Turns out I didn't need to worry. The Alpe Adria route is about 90% dedicated bike path, so we had a two-lane road just for us. The rest is on quiet country roads, with little interaction with cars or pedestrians.

Nutrition. Did I need carbohydrate gels, hydration tablets and salt tablets? Absolutely not. My pace was leisurely, and the e-bike made things even easier. I was still sweaty, sore and numb in the bum by the end of the day, but it could have been worse.

Mechanics. At the briefing, Marco showed me the repair kit that lives in the pannier. Realistically, these are new, top-quality bikes that rarely need attention. The navigation app also marks bike shops along the route, and there's a steady trickle of other cyclists who would probably stop to help if you waved and gave them puppy dog eyes.

Gear. Would I have to shave my legs, wear skin-tight Lycra and clip into cleats? Nope. I wore knee-length sports shorts and trail running shoes. The one thing I did want was a proper cycling jersey with a three-quarter zip and a longer back for sun protection, ideally emblazoned with Austria or Italy as a practical souvenir. Alas, I couldn't find one, so I bought a local cycling brand from a sports store instead.

On the road

I took my main luggage to the lobby to be transferred to tonight's hotel. Attach a luggage tag and the man with the van collects it. Too easy. I found my bike in the bike bay (easy, as it was the only one left; everyone else had already gone, a consistent theme of my trip) and off I went. What a feeling to join the stream of riders leaving Salzburg, following the Salzach River and quickly surrounded by forest.

I had my Shokz headphones on, soundtracking the ride with Mozart (appropriately). Whenever a fork in the road approached, the navigation app's voice would tell me to "keep left" or "cross the bridge in 300 metres". It was a welcome safety net. If I went off course, whether on purpose or (more likely) by accident, a "ding dong" would sound and the voice would let me know. It meant I didn't have to keep stopping to check my phone. There was also plenty of signage showing directions and distances.

Europe was in the middle of a heatwave and today was no different, so I lathered my arms and face in sunscreen. Of course, with 5 km (3 miles) to go, the sky darkened and a huge storm looked imminent. My plans to relax poolside with a beer were dashed! At check-in I asked about the weather, and the dirndl-wearing receptionist shrugged: in the mountains, the weather is always changing. Fortunately it cleared, and I managed a couple of hours doing exactly what I'd been dreaming of all day.

I went exploring for dinner. St Johann is a quintessential adventure sports town, as you can tell from the number of outdoor shops and the stunning mountain range framing the view. After the buzz of Vienna and Salzburg, it was practically asleep, and it was interesting to see a quieter side of Austria. I found a traditional restaurant with a range of schnitzels. I asked the waitress for her favourite and she recommended the Mexican schnitzel with corn, cheese and jalapeños. How could I say nein?

Day 3: St Johann im Pongau to Mallnitz

My numb bum had recovered overnight and wasn't too tender back in the saddle. My male ego was very grateful for the e-bike's help powering up the inclines. It was easy to ride, too. I quickly learned which way to shift the gears; get it wrong and the pedals turn to lead.

The scenery was phenomenal: craggy mountains, lush grass and people thriving in the outdoors. Every tunnel felt like someone had switched on the air conditioning. Some of the longer ones had me positively shivering, a stark contrast to the heat outside.

Mallnitz turned out to be my favourite village of the whole trip. A panoramic view of the Hohe Tauern mountains from my hotel balcony. Charming streets with bridges, streams and chocolate-box buildings, and travellers enjoying an afternoon aperitivo. After one lap of town you feel like a local, confidently giving directions. The real Austria? This was it.

Tonight also happened to be Austria vs Argentina in the World Cup, and there was the perfect place to watch it. A small bar had set up an outdoor TV, with a crowd gathered around drinking pints and eating schnitzels. The Austrians were humble about their chances ("they have Messi"), so there were no tears at the inevitable loss. During an ad break, Falco's classic "Rock Me Amadeus" played. For me, it was the icing on a perfect Austrian experience.

What is the Alpe Adria Cycle Path?

The Alpe Adria Cycle Path (Alpe-Adria-Radweg in German, Ciclovia Alpe Adria in Italian) runs about 410 km (255 miles) from Salzburg to Grado on the Adriatic coast. It crosses the Hohe Tauern, passes through Villach and Tarvisio, then winds through the Carnic and Julian Alps and across the Friulian plain to the sea. Much of the Italian section follows an old railway line, so the gradients are gentle and the tunnels, bridges and converted stations become part of the ride. With dedicated bike path for most of the way, it's one of the easiest ways to cross the Alps. If you're a walker, there's also the Alpe Adria Hiking Trail.

Day 4: Mallnitz to Villach

The day started with a glorious downhill coast: long switchbacks on smooth bitumen, closing in on the green valley below. About halfway down, the thought did cross my mind that if I'd gone off track, it would be a hell of a ride back up. Ah well, best to enjoy it now. Fortunately, I was on track.

Today felt the most like the Camino de Santiago. I've walked the full 800 km (497 miles) across Spain, and I'd heard the Alpe Adria compared to it, just without the spiritual side. There were farmyard scenes with goats, sheep and cows in their pens, cartoon-like dairies, and roadside stands cheering riders on their way. Still no tattoo shops offering the Alpe Adria symbol, though (unlike the Camino shell). Surely a business opportunity?

I finally found what I'd been looking for all trip: a swimming spot. Just off the path was an icy blue pond with a group of shirtless German cyclists beside it. As keen as I was to cool off, first things first. I rummaged through my pannier for my very warm can of beer and put it in the water to chill. One of the swimmers offered me a cold one right now (ja!) and fished out an octopus strap tethered to a six-pack. Wunderbar. Hot as it was, my swim lasted only a quick plunge. It was freezing.

Little did I know that time spent relaxing could have been used to outride an approaching storm. The sun disappeared behind an angry sky, with wind, rain and lightning, and me pedalling like a banshee. I eventually found shelter under a bridge with a few other cyclists. One of them shrugged and said, "The mountains." The storm passed and the sun returned, but I stayed soggy all the way to the finish.

Tonight's stop was Villach, a larger town at the crossroads of Austria, Slovenia and Italy. After cute and cosy Mallnitz, I did recoil at the busyness a little, although it's certainly no metropolis and there was still no sign of tour coaches. My hotel was right on the main street in a 16th-century Renaissance building. I celebrated my last night in Austria with a pizza. Italy, here I come!

Day 5: Villach to Tarvisio to Gemona

A bit of a cheat day. The itinerary includes a train from Villach to Tarvisio (tickets included) that skips 35 km (22 miles). Fine by me. It's clearly standard practice, with plenty of other cyclists waiting on the platform for the 9:45am. The only people unprepared were the station staff, who were yelling, gesturing, arguing and shaking their heads while trying to get the bikes on board. Surely this happens every day? Then I remembered: that's just what German sounds like. I asked the woman next to me whether she spoke English and what was going on. She replied "not really", then explained the situation flawlessly. Europeans and their multilingualism.

Half an hour later I was riding through Italy. The Italians keep even better cycling infrastructure than the Austrians, if you can believe it. The green, red and blue Alpe Adria symbol was everywhere, the path was smooth and well marked, and signs promoting the route were all over the place, a testament to how much tourism it brings the area (rail trail naysayers in Australia, take note!). When I spotted a 1 km detour to Valbruna, "the jewel of the Julian Alps", I took it (the beauty of a self-guided tour) and was rewarded with a great view of Slovenia's mountain ranges.

You could really tell you were riding along an old railway line today. There were many tunnels through the mountains, which were seriously dark until I took my sunglasses off. There were bridges, too, and old stations converted into charming cafes, the perfect stop for my first Italian beer (though after being spoilt by Austrian beer, I should have gone for an Aperol).

The highlight was the Cadramazzo waterfall, which splits in two as it tumbles 82 metres into crystal-clear pools. The sun was out, the water wasn't as icy as yesterday's, and it was pure... bellissimo.

One of the joys of touring by bike: when I reached my hotel and found the nearest grocery store for aperitivo beers was 1 km away, I simply hopped back on and sped off. For dinner I made the right call with an Aperol Spritz and another pizza.

Day 6: Gemona to Udine

The differences between Austria and Italy quickly became obvious. Terracotta roofs, rows of vineyards, and street signs with a bit more flair. Piazza this, via that.

The landscape changes too as you leave the mountains behind. The paths flatten out into farming plains, with fields of sunflowers, corn and wheat. It makes for fairly straightforward cycling (pun intended).

What's in my panniers?

First, what is a pannier? It's the bag that attaches to the rear rack of the bike. I also had a front bag on the handlebars. Both are very spacious.

• Handlebar bag (things I need constantly): water, wallet, passport, power bank and snacks (although my chocolate bar quickly melted into a disaster).
• Rear pannier: a fresh shirt and shorts (in case I arrive before my luggage), a jacket for rain or cool weather, a book, sunscreen, toilet paper and a packable backpack for carrying valuables whenever I stop. Plus the bike lock and battery charger.

With a short day of just 55 km (34 miles), I was on track to reach Udine before check-in, so I went on a side quest to find a top-rated gelateria. The navigation app wasn't a fan and ding-donged me a few times for going off route, but I persisted. The beauty of self-guided travel is that detours are up to you. My reward: tiramisu and blueberry cheesecake gelato.

Udine is the biggest city since Salzburg and the capital of the Friuli region. It's less known than Venice or Bologna, and for me that was its charm. A university town, it has a lively atmosphere, with street art and outdoor cafes buzzing with Aperol Spritzes.

My hotel was run by a woman with a loyal sausage dog that followed her everywhere. After checking in, I explored the piazzas, and for dinner I tried the local fare: porchetta with freshly grated horseradish (kren grattato fresco al momento).

Day 7: Udine to Grado

Breakfast was the pre-ordered kind, which meant big decisions the night before. Smoked burrata? Prosciutto, speck, salami or pancetta? I went for a pistachio croissant and a selection of cheeses and hams.

Today's highlight was a strange one. Palmanova was built inside a star-shaped fortress. Seen from above, by drone or spaceship, it's an incredibly beautiful design. At ground level, it looks like any other town. Its creators had remarkable foresight about how aerial photography would one day boost tourism. I cycled the perimeter (hoping for a cool Strava map) and stopped for a pistachio and strawberry gelato, earning a dirty look from the server for mixing cream and fruit flavours.

I rode on past rows of vines and sunflowers until, suddenly, the Adriatic appeared in front of me. After so long in the countryside, a sheet of lapping blue water was a shock. A narrow causeway cut through the middle of the lagoon, and in the middle of it stood the iconic lone tree. After the requisite selfies, I kept pedalling with an undeniable sadness that the journey was ending.

Grado was also where I got my first rude gesture from a driver. I gathered that cyclists should be on the bike path, not the road. My mistake! The island is very bike friendly, and those dedicated cycle paths are there for a reason.

At the hotel I was checked in by two lovely receptionists. When they asked if I'd driven and needed parking, I did a few slow blinks, looked down at my grubby cycling top, sunburnt arms and tiny daypack, and placed my helmet on the counter. Not necessary!

Grado was a fitting end to the Alpe Adria. The town is full of beach clubs and sun loungers, with visitors there to flop and drop in the sunshine. It was a neat contrast between two ways to travel: escaping the stresses of daily life on a sunbed all day, or going on a cross-border cycling adventure.

Day 8: Grado

I'll admit, it was a shock to the routine not to pack my cycling essentials and have my luggage in the lobby by 9am. Instead, I had nothing but a day of lazing on the beach ahead. How would I enjoy my pizza, gelato and sundowners guilt-free today? Somehow, I managed.

Ten tips for first-time cycle tourers

1. Cyclists don't wear big sunglasses to look cool. They're for bug protection: effectively a windscreen for your face!
2. Sundays are a day of rest, so expect restaurants and shops to be closed or keep limited hours.
3. Put sunscreen on above the knee!
4. Ride on the right.
5. Read the route notes the night before to plan your day.
6. Don't wee in stinging nettles.
7. Pack a rain jacket, even in a heatwave. Storms roll in fast in the mountains.
8. Take your sunglasses off in the tunnels. Some are seriously dark.
9. Practise taking off your panniers at the briefing, not on a train platform in a hurry.
10. Keep chocolate out of the handlebar bag. Trust me.

>> Alpe Adria Cycle Path: Salzburg to Grado

>> Cycling tours in Austria

Is Self-Guided Walking the Perfect Holiday for Introverts?

Sometimes the best part of a holiday is simply having time and space to yourself. Sweden has just made that idea official.

On 29 September, Visit Sweden launched The Introvert Travel Agency, which it calls the world's first travel agency for introverts. The campaign is tongue-in-cheek, but the message behind it is serious: not everyone wants a holiday packed with crowds and constant social interaction.

A YouGov survey commissioned by Visit Sweden across nine markets found that 41 per cent of travel respondents consider themselves introverted. The campaign highlights the things they value most: peace and quiet, personal space, and the freedom to enjoy a destination on their own terms.

To us, that sounds a lot like a self-guided walking holiday.

Your day, your pace

"Sometimes the luxury of a holiday is simply having time and space to yourself," says UTracks General Manager Kate Baker.

"On a self-guided walk, your accommodation, route information and many of the logistics are taken care of, but the day is yours. You decide when to start, where to stop and how long to linger somewhere along the way."

There's no group timetable and no need to keep pace with anyone else. Stop for coffee, take an hour over lunch, sit beside a lake on your own, or simply walk without feeling you need to be doing something every minute of the day.

Independent, but never unsupported

UTracks has offered self-guided active holidays in Europe for almost 20 years. They combine the independence of travelling on your own with the support of an organised holiday:

• Accommodation booked in advance
• Detailed route information and navigation tools
• Luggage transfers on many itineraries
• Local support if you need it

You set out on your own each day, but that doesn't mean you're travelling in isolation.

"You can chat to people in villages, restaurants and the places you stay, or simply enjoy your own company. That balance is one of the great things about self-guided travel," Kate says.

Why Sweden suits a quieter walk

Sweden is made for this style of holiday. It has vast forests, lakes, islands and coastal trails, and its culture has a strong connection to spending time in nature.

UTracks offers several self-guided walking holidays in Sweden:

• Sweden: Baltic Coastal Walk (7 days): through Tyresta National Park, forests, seaside trails and villages.
• Sweden: Island Hopping Walk (7 days): through Stockholm's southern archipelago.
• Highlights of the Sormland Trail (7 days): exploring sections of one of Sweden's longest walking trails.

Not just for introverts

"It is a great campaign from Visit Sweden, but you do not really have to be an introvert to want some breathing space on holiday," Kate says.

So while Sweden's new agency was created with introverts in mind, extroverts are very welcome on our walking holidays too.

Browse our self-guided walking holidays in Sweden

The Way, Her Way: A New Camino Film Puts the Portuguese Camino in the Spotlight

A new Australian film is about to send people looking for the Portuguese Camino who have never heard of it before. The Way, Her Way, from director Bill Bennett and producer Jennifer Cluff, began filming in Portugal on 13 October 2026. It follows a woman walking the Portuguese Camino after her marriage ends, and it's a sequel to Bennett's 2024 film The Way, My Way.

Walk it yourself: UTracks runs the Portuguese Camino across all three route variants, with self-guided trips on the Central Route, the Coastal Way and the Spiritual Variant, or browse 20+ itineraries for walking the Portuguese Camino.

If the film brought you here, or you've started researching the Portuguese Camino for yourself, here's what's worth knowing: the story behind the film, the route's history, and how the three variants compare.

The film: The Way, Her Way

The story follows Anna, 39, who learns on her fifteenth wedding anniversary that her husband is leaving her for his 23 year old paralegal. She googles what to do after being cheated on, finds "walk the Camino" at number seven on the list, and a few days later is in Porto starting the Portuguese Camino with brand new gear and no walking experience. The Camino, and the pilgrims she meets along it, change her, and when her husband later asks for another chance she has to choose between the marriage and the life she's found on her own. The filmmakers describe it as a story of female empowerment, and executive producer Marc Wooldridge calls it "the first ever Camino based feature film about a woman's experience" (an English-language first is the more defensible claim, since Spanish and Portuguese-language Camino films already exist).

Geraldine Hakewill, the Australian actress known for Wanted and the title role in Ms Fisher's Modern Murder Mysteries, was announced as Anna on 12 October 2026, on the eve of filming. As with the first film, the cast mixes professional actors with real pilgrims: Marie, Steve and Patty are drawn from the group Bennett and Cluff walked with on the Portuguese Camino in 2014.

Bennett directs and co-writes with his partner Jennifer Cluff, who also produces. The pair have walked the Portuguese Camino twice, and the script draws on true stories from their nine Caminos combined. Camino author Johnnie Walker, who has walked 57 Caminos and written 19 guidebooks, is an executive producer and advised on the script; he points out that more than half of all pilgrims on the Camino are women, which he and the filmmakers say the genre has overlooked until now.

Principal photography runs along the coastal route to Vila do Conde, then inland through Padrón into Galicia to Santiago and on to Finisterre, continuing to mid-November 2026 before a week of filming in Australia. Bennett says cinemas are "expected" in May 2027, and the production is also aiming for a May 2027 screening at Cannes, though neither date is confirmed. Worth noting for anyone researching further: the casting, box office and release details circulating online come largely from Bennett's own blog and the film's own website, which also carries financing and investor pages, so they're presented here as the filmmakers' own statements rather than independently verified facts.

A short history of the Portuguese Camino

Pilgrims have been walking from Portugal to the tomb of St James in Santiago de Compostela since medieval times, and the Portuguese Camino is now the second most walked of all the routes to Santiago, behind only the Camino Francés. It grew alongside Porto itself: the city's rise as a trading port on the Douro, and Portugal's independence in the 12th century, shaped the towns and bridges the route still passes through today.

A record 530,987 pilgrims received a Compostela certificate at the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago in 2025. Of those, it's reported 51,572 walked the Central route and 41,644 the Coastal route, together making the Portuguese Camino the busiest set of approaches to Santiago after the French route. Women made up 53% of all pilgrims in 2025. That gender split is exactly the gap The Way, Her Way is aiming to fill on screen.

Three ways to walk the Portuguese Camino

The Portuguese Camino isn't one path but three, and the film itself crosses between two of them, starting on the coast before cutting inland through Padrón to Santiago. Here's how the routes differ, based on UTracks' own trip notes.

Central Route

The original and most walked of the three, running inland from Porto through Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and across the Alto da Portela Grande, the highest point on the route at 430m. Our Central Route itinerary, Porto to Santiago, covers it in 14 days (13 nights), around 230km of walking through market towns, vineyards and eucalyptus woods before crossing into Spain at Tui and finishing at the cathedral in Santiago.

Coastal Way

A quieter, flatter alternative that hugs the Atlantic on the Senda Litoral, passing fishing villages such as Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim before crossing into Spain by ferry near Caminha. Our Coastal Way itinerary, Porto to Baiona, covers this leg in 9 days (8 nights), around 140km, and it's this stretch the The Way, Her Way production crew is following for its opening scenes.

Spiritual Variant

The least known of the three and arguably the most atmospheric. It branches off the Central route at Pontevedra, follows the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga past old mills and the Monastery of Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa, then swaps boots for a boat: a crossing of the Arousa estuary to Pontecesures that's recognised as an official stage of the Camino, complete with its own pilgrim stamp. Our Spiritual Variant itinerary combines this with the coastal walk north of Porto for a 16 day (15 night), roughly 270km journey to Santiago.

Walking it with UTracks

However you come to the Portuguese Camino, there's a version that fits. The full Central Route and the Coastal Way with Spiritual Variant are both available as complete self-guided walks, and shorter sections (Porto to Tui, Porto to Baiona, Lisbon to Porto) suit a first taste of the route or a tighter schedule. There's also a guided option designed for senior travellers, and self-guided cycling itineraries from Lisbon to Porto and on to Santiago for those who'd rather pedal the Camino than walk it. All of our self-guided trips include accommodation, luggage transfer, route notes and GPX files, and a pilgrim's passport for the Compostela certificate at the end. Browse 20+ itineraries for  walking the Camino Portuguese..

Frequently asked questions

How long is the Portuguese Camino? It depends which route and starting point you choose. Our Central Route from Porto to Santiago covers around 230km over 13 walking days, while the Coastal Way from Porto to Baiona is a shorter 140km over 8 days. Starting from Lisbon adds several hundred kilometres more.

Which variant should I walk? The Central Route is the classic choice, with the widest range of towns and the most pilgrim infrastructure. The Coastal Way suits walkers who want flatter terrain and sea views over historic towns. The Spiritual Variant is best added on by those who've walked a Camino before and want something quieter, including the boat crossing to Pontecesures.

When does The Way, Her Way come out? There's no confirmed release date. Director Bill Bennett says cinemas are expected in May 2027, with the production also targeting a Cannes screening that month, though both remain unconfirmed as filming only began in October 2026.

Sources

• The Way, Her Way official website (film, cast and team pages)

• Bill Bennett's blog: casting announcement, 12 October 2026

• Bill Bennett's blog: award announcement, 13 September 2026

• The Way, My Way, Wikipedia (box office and review figures)

The Lechweg Trail: A Wonderful Alpine Walk Without the Big Passes

By Tali Emdin

The Lechweg Trail is an 8 or 10 day self-guided walk of approximately 125km, following the turquoise Lech River from its source at Lake Formarinsee, near the alpine village of Lech am Arlberg in Austria, to the Lechfall waterfall in Füssen, Germany. I walked the eight-day version, the Lechweg Trail Hike, from 20 to 27 June 2026 in the middle of a heatwave.. The itinerary is graded Moderate (Grade 3) and includes overnight stays in comfortable 3 or 4 star hotels and the 'Lech Card' (more on what this is below).

The trail officially opened in 2012, created to protect one of the last remaining wild river landscapes in Europe. Unlike many Alpine rivers that have been heavily dammed or channelled, the Lech still flows naturally for much of its length, creating a network of gravel banks, channels and floodplain forests.

Overall Impression

The Lechweg turned out to be a wonderful Alpine experience, without the big mountain passes and long ascents and descents I might have expected. The scenery was outstanding throughout: beautiful alpine villages, turquoise rivers, mountain lakes. Navigation was generally straightforward, and we hardly needed the app, since the waymarking on the ground is excellent.

Having not walked in an alpine environment before, I was surprised at how gravelly the tracks are. You're walking on forestry access roads and gravel paths that are extremely hard and rocky underfoot, and in the forests there are tree roots and rocks to watch for the whole way. Hiking poles were extremely useful.

A lot of the walk is exposed, so in 32 degrees it was hot. We took every opportunity to dip our hats and feet into the river and streams, or go for a swim.

Day 1: Arrival in Lech am Arlberg

Our hotel was run by a lovely mother and daughter team, right next to the cable car station in the centre of town. We arrived on the summer solstice, so that evening we used our Lech Card to catch the Rufikopf cable car up to the top station, where they'd lit a bonfire and set out lanterns around the tracks. The restaurant up there stayed open late, so we had a traditional Austrian dinner with the view.

Day 2: Formarinsee to Lech am Arlberg (14km)

The first walking day starts with a bus up to Lake Formarinsee, sitting at 1,793m beneath the limestone cliffs of the Rote Wand and marking one of the main sources of the River Lech. It's a striking spot, and not just to my eyes: it was voted Austria's most beautiful place in 2015. The lake circuit is about 4km, well maintained on the first half, before turning into proper alpine walking on the second, with rougher terrain and the occasional need for a hand on the rock.

The descent back to Lech, by contrast, is a gentle, easy walk through alpine meadows, and the mountain scenery is stunning. Visually this was the most gorgeous of all the days. Near the end of the walk we reached the local swimming pool by the river, free with the Lech Card, and stopped for a beer and a dip before heading in for the night.

Day 3: Walk to Warth, then on to Steeg (26km)

If you finish in Warth, you can start later and catch the bus the rest of the way to Steeg. Being purists, we walked the full day, which the trip notes actually rate Moderate to Challenging if you skip the bus and walk the whole section, so it's not just us being precious about it.

Starting uphill out of Lech, you walk along the Lech Valley, crossing fields with great views of the surrounding mountains, before some steep sections through forest above Lech Gorge. From Warth, the trail follows a lovely panorama route above the river, through fields of spring flowers, with views down to the Lech's turquoise water the whole way.

The final descent into Steeg is a gravel switchback road, about 4km, and it was the least enjoyable stretch of the day, hard on the knees after that much walking already. There was a small mercy at the bottom: a drinks trough with an honesty box. The heat was real. We followed the river the rest of the way into Steeg, inside the Lechtal Nature Park, and were spent by the time we reached our hotel that night.

Day 4: Walk to Elbigenalp (18km)

This was a good day. The trail runs beside the river to Holzgau, a village of brightly painted houses, before the walk's signature moment: a 200m suspension bridge, with an honesty box to cross it that nobody's actually policing. I'll admit I took Scott's word for the views. Heights aren't my thing.

Further on you pass the Jochelspitzbahn cable car, and we rode it up for a proper lookout over the ground we'd already covered, before continuing through meadows and forest paths the rest of the way to Elbigenalp.

Day 5: Walk to Stanzach (20km)

From Elbigenalp, the trail continues through the heart of the Lechtal Nature Park, on forest paths, open meadows and riverside trails, through the villages of Häselgehr and Elmen, where traditional Tyrolean farmhouses reflect the region's alpine heritage.

As the trail approaches Stanzach, the river broadens into one of the largest gravel riverbeds in the Alps. It reminded us both of rivers in Alaska. Our guesthouse that night had an owner keen to talk about the solar panels covering his roof; at one point I looked outside and found Scott and another guest up ladders inspecting them with him. Dinner came with a translation mishap: we thought we'd ordered a steak sandwich and got pork in a sauce neither of us could identify.

Day 6: Walk to Höfen (19km)

After five days of climbs and descents, this one is close to flat, gravel underfoot most of the way and the river close by for company. The trail passes through Forchach and skirts the Lechzopf, a braided stretch where the water splits into multiple channels weaving through gravel banks, one of the wildest-looking sections of the whole valley.

The highlight was a quarry lake about two-thirds of the way in, clear and cold enough that we didn't want to get out. If I were doing this day again I'd leave later and give the quarry a few real hours rather than a quick stop.

Day 7: Walk to Pflach or Füssen (26km)

You could feel the nervous tension in the breakfast room, with people deciding what to do; I believe the heat was a deciding factor for a lot of walkers. There were three options: bus part of the way, take a shorter river route that misses the lake, or walk the whole thing. We went the long way, and this is the other day the trip notes bump up to Moderate to Challenging if you walk it in full.

The walk starts along a panoramic path above the Reutte valley, then a short, steep climb to the Costaries Chapel, where there are shaded seats. From there it's downhill through forest to Frauensee, a swimming lake, where the heat made a quick swim non-negotiable before we carried on.

Crossing the railway line marks the start of a steady climb towards the German border, and the forest genuinely changes character as you approach it: thicker vegetation, no logging, noticeably cooler air. Scott walked back and forth over the actual border marker a few times just to be sure it was real. From there the trail switchbacks down through forest to Lake Alpsee, with Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein castles visible across the water. We took the wrong side of the lake hoping for a swim and didn't find one, which turned the last stretch into more of a trek than we'd planned, made harder by the heat. The trail finishes at the Lech Falls after a climb up past Kalvarienberg and its churches. Walked as signposted, it's a 32km day.

From the falls it's another twenty minutes into town, and we stopped by the river one last time to dunk our feet, Scott went in fully, before heading to our hotel.

Should You Walk It?

Absolutely, for those wanting a moderate grade walk that isn't too hard on the knees (poles recommended), that lets you hike through lovely alpine environments while staying in traditional Austrian accommodation. Most sections have the option of a bus to shorten the day if the heat or the distance gets to you.

Who doesn't want to catch cable cars in the middle of their walk and marvel at the surrounding views while enjoying a Radler? Who doesn't want to go swimming in alpine lakes, rivers and quarries?

How fit do you really have to be? A moderate level is enough to enjoy it, though the heat made it harder than expected during our week, especially on the long exposed sections.

Thanks to Scott, for being my model for most of the pictures, and to my physiotherapist: I don't think I've ever travelled with so much ibuprofen, kinesiology tape, resistance bands and recovery balls. My Achilles made it!

>> View the Lechweg Trail Hike (8 Days)
>> View the Lechweg Trail Hike (10 Days)
>> View all Alpine Hiking trips

Watch: Sarah's Family Adventure on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Follow along as UTracks traveller Sarah takes on the Tour du Mont Blanc with her family, tracing the trail through France, Italy and Switzerland and picking up more than a few lifelong memories along the way.

This video gives a real feel for a day on the trail: the pace, the mountain refuges, the shared meals, and the sense of achievement that comes with each pass crossed. Whether you're drawn to a fully guided departure or prefer to walk the route at your own pace, it's a great introduction to one of Europe's most celebrated long-distance hikes.

About UTracks' Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc is a horseshoe circuit around Western Europe's highest peak, crossing high alpine passes in France, Italy and Switzerland. It's one of the most celebrated long-distance walks in the world, and for good reason: each day brings a change of scenery, from glacier-fed valleys to flower-strewn alpine pastures, with the Mont Blanc massif a constant backdrop.

On our classic guided departure, hikers cover around 10 to 20km a day over 5 to 9 hours, overnighting in mountain refuges and village gîtes on a dormitory share basis. Mules carry your main luggage between stops, so you only need to carry a day pack while walking. Small international groups of up to 14 are led by an expert local mountain guide, with meals, luggage transfers and internal transport all included along the way.

With logistics taken care of and each day's route mapped out, our Tour du Mont Blanc trips let you focus on the trail and the mountains around you. Choose a guided departure with an expert local leader, or a self-guided itinerary at your own pace if you'd rather go it alone. We also offer gentler "Rambler" pacing and family-friendly departures, so there's a way to experience the TMB whatever your hiking style.

Group sizes on our guided departures are kept small, and popular July and August dates fill quickly, so it's worth booking well ahead if the Alps are calling.

>> View all Tour du Mont Blanc tours

>> View all Alpine Hiking tours

Webinar: Exploring Europe's Bike & Barge Tours

Learn all about exploring Europe's canals, rivers and waterways on a bike and barge tour from Pat, one of UTracks' active travel experts. In this session Pat shares trip highlights, meals en route and the range of itineraries on offer, along with insider advice from someone who has done it themselves.

Whether you're picturing a relaxed pedal along quiet towpaths or a more active multi-day ride between historic towns, this webinar covers what a typical day looks like, how the barge and cycling days fit together, and what to expect on board, to help you decide which itinerary is right for you.

About UTracks' Bike & Barge Tours

Explore Europe's rivers and canals your way on an unforgettable bike and barge tour. Bike and barge holidays are one of the most popular ways for active travellers to experience the hidden corners of Europe. Not only do you cover more ground on a boat-based tour, you also wake up to a sunrise in a different location every morning, all while only having to unpack once.

Most barges offer twin cabins in a bunk-style configuration, though some have side-by-side beds and triple or quad cabins suitable for families. Cabins are compact but comfortable, some with ensuite facilities, and accommodate between 15 and 20 passengers plus crew depending on the boat. Meals are taken onboard in a communal dining area, and our barges travel along calm waterways, usually no faster than 15km per hour.

With luggage handled and each day's cycling mapped out in advance, our bike and barge trips let you focus entirely on the ride and the scenery passing by. Whether you choose a guided departure with a group leader or a self-guided itinerary at your own pace, exploring Europe by bike and barge offers a uniquely relaxed way to see the continent, one stretch of water at a time.

Because of the limited capacity on board, our guided and self-guided bike and barge holidays book up well in advance, so it's essential to plan your trip early to avoid missing out.

>> View all Bike & Barge tours

Walking Albania's Coast: A Riviera Still Finding Its Feet

By Michele Salazar

There is a stretch of the Ionian coast where the mountains fall almost straight into the sea, the water turns a blue you half expect to be exaggerated in photos, and the villages sit so quietly on the hillsides that you start to wonder where everyone has gone. This is southern Albania in spring, and for a week in April it was mine to walk through, mostly alone but for a shepherd or two and the occasional group of hikers coming the other way.

I joined the Albania Coastal Walk, basing myself in the seaside town of Himarë for five nights before moving up into the mountains of Llogara National Park and finishing in the capital, Tirana. The routes trace the most scenic sections of coast to the north and south of Himarë, following ancient mule paths and goat trails that shepherds have used for centuries, along with a few more recent additions like the so-called Prisoners Trail, cut during the communist era. Here is how the week unfolded.

Arriving on the Riviera

The trip begins with a transfer from Tirana, a drive of around four hours that ends with a steep, winding descent to the coast. The final stretch is the one that stays with you, the road dropping through the mountains until the Ionian opens up ahead and the town of Himarë appears along the shore.

Himarë made an easy base. I stayed at the southern end of town, a quieter and less developed pocket than the busy northern promenade, though everything was still within an easy stroll. My hotel sat right on the water, and after settling in I regrouped with the group for the first of many long, unhurried dinners: soup and bread, eggplant and capsicum in balsamic, a bright salad of orange and iceberg lettuce, and a whole fish to finish.

Kudhes to Qeparo: an easy start through the olive groves

The first walking day set the tone. A short transfer dropped us near the village of Kudhes, and from there the trail climbed gently through olive groves towards the settlement above. The villages up here feel sparsely populated and almost untouched, and the walking was relaxed, with only slight undulations along the mountainside and a few rocky sections underfoot.

We stopped for a sit-down lunch in Old Qeparo, a lovely spot shared with a couple of other walking groups, before the path dropped down old shepherd trails to Qeparo Beach and the chance for a swim in water so clear it looked lit from below. On the way back we called in at Porto Palermo Castle, sitting on a small island reached by a narrow causeway. It was closed the day we visited, but the setting alone was worth the stop.

Vuno to Himarë: cliffs, coves and a coast in transition

Day two of walking was longer, starting in the village of Vuno and opening onto exposed coastal terrain with little shade. This is a hike-and-swim kind of day, passing beach after beach and cove after cove, each one holding that same vivid turquoise water.

It also showed me a side of the Riviera worth knowing about before you come. In April, the beachside resorts sit almost deserted, half-built and overgrown, with only a few workers preparing for the season ahead. There is a strange, cinematic stillness to it, like a film set waiting for its cast. There is also a fair amount of new construction along the coast, a reminder that this part of Albania is changing quickly. The small bays and clear water more than made up for it, and there was time for a final swim about an hour from the hotel.

The Prisoners Trail: Lukovë to Borsh

With rain forecast for the inland hills, our guide Kreshnik swapped the order of the next two days, so we took to the coastal Prisoners Trail from Lukovë to Borsh. We started a little later to let the morning showers pass, then wound down through terraced olive groves towards the southern end of Bunec Beach, the coastline unfolding in sweeping vistas of turquoise framed by rugged hills.

Much of the day felt like a beach walk, though the trail spent most of its time on the headlands above the shoreline, with wild thyme lining the path and releasing its scent as we passed. Concrete bunkers dotted the hillsides throughout, one of the more than 170,000 scattered across the country and a constant reminder of Albania's communist past. It made for a relaxed day with a real sense of history layered underneath.

Into the mountains: Lukovë to Piqeras

This was the day the trip changed character. Where the earlier walks had been gentle, the mountain route from Lukovë to Piqeras is a different proposition: remote, rugged and quietly wild. From the moment I left Lukovë until I reached Piqeras there was almost no sign of human life beyond the odd shepherd's hut. In a full day of walking I crossed paths with just one other group.

The scenery was the reward for the effort. Expansive coastal views, rugged mountain terrain, and hillsides lit up with wildflowers that softened the harder edges of the landscape. The trail is not clearly marked and can be heavily overgrown in places, so navigation takes real attention. The middle section traverses exposed mountainside on narrow goat paths, with steep drops and a tangle of animal trails, and the final descent runs down a loose, rocky track. It is more demanding underfoot and more remote than the coastal days, and all the more memorable for it.

That evening brought one of the highlights of the whole week. We climbed to the castle ruins above Old Himarë to watch the sun drop over the Ionian, the elevated ground giving us a panorama across the coast and the mountains behind. Dinner followed nearby at the excellent Fig & Olive, on a terrace overlooking the water. The temperature fell fast once the sun went down, and I was glad of Kreshnik's earlier advice to pack an extra layer.

Llogara National Park and Mt Gjipali

After five nights in Himarë we packed up and moved to Hotel Sofo, a mountain lodge in Llogara National Park with an alpine feel closer to something you might find in Austria than on a Mediterranean coast. Bags dropped, we set straight out on foot.

The change in terrain was immediate. Where the coastal trails had been rough and improvised, the path here felt like a proper alpine route, climbing steadily through forest thick with moss-covered rocks before breaking above the treeline into open, exposed ground. Strong winds and a sharp drop in temperature made this the most demanding day so far, particularly near the antenna towers on the ridge, where the cold was biting. The views were the payoff: the rugged coastline on one side and the dramatic peaks of the Ceraunian Mountains on the other.

Maja Qorres via the Dhjopuri Saddle

The final full day of walking was the hardest, with more than 1,000 metres of climbing on a steep route to Maja Qorres by way of the Dhjopuri Saddle. The distance was modest but the sustained ascent made it a proper challenge, well beyond what the earlier coastal days had asked of us.

The first section climbs to the saddle at a moderate grade, and from there walkers had a choice. Those wanting a shorter day could rest at the saddle and return, an option about half the group sensibly took. For the rest of us, Kreshnik led on to the summit of Maja Qorres at 2,018 metres. Beyond the saddle the terrain steepened sharply, and the final push involved a genuine scramble with plenty of hands-on rock and careful footing. Anyone uneasy with heights would find it intimidating, but reaching the top felt like a real achievement. Sitting beside a patch of snow while looking down to the sparkling coastline far below was one of the standout moments of the trip.

That evening we drove back to Tirana and rounded off the walking with dinner at Mrizi i Zanave, a wonderful farm-to-table restaurant serving traditional Albanian cooking. A fitting way to close the week.

An extra day in Berat

With time to spare in Tirana, I took a two-and-a-half-hour bus into central Albania to Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage town known as the City of a Thousand Windows for the white Ottoman houses that cascade down the hillside below its castle. The old town, the castle district and the riverside setting made a lovely contrast to a week of coast and mountains, and I would happily recommend it as an add-on to anyone with a spare day.

Should you walk it?

If you come expecting a gentle stroll from beach to beach the whole way, this trip will surprise you, and I mean that as a compliment. The coastal days are relaxed and accessible, but the mountain stages ask more of you, both physically and in terms of navigation. That range is part of what makes the week so satisfying. You move from swimming in hidden coves to standing on a snow-dusted summit, all within a few days.

A reasonable level of fitness and a willingness to embrace a country that is still developing its trail network will serve you well. Come with that, and Albania's coast offers something increasingly rare in Europe: a corner that still feels like your own.

Practical Information

When to go

Spring and autumn are the sweet spots. In April the hillsides are green and covered in wildflowers, the trails are quiet, and the resorts have yet to fill for summer. Daytime walking is comfortable, but the higher mountain days can be cold and windy, so pack accordingly. The summer months bring the crowds and the heat, which makes the exposed coastal walking far less pleasant.

Getting there

The trip starts and finishes in Tirana, with a transfer of around four hours to Himarë along the Albanian Riviera. The drive is scenic in its own right, passing lagoons and coastal viewpoints before the final descent to the sea.

What to pack

Layers are essential. The coastal days can be warm and exposed, while the mountain stages bring wind and a sharp drop in temperature, especially in the evenings and on the summits. Bring sturdy, well-broken-in footwear, as the trails range from smooth cobbled paths to loose, rocky descents. Sun protection, plenty of water and swimwear for the beaches will all earn their place in your pack.

Good to know

Trail markings along the coast are basic and often faded, and reliable maps are scarce, so the navigation materials provided are worth studying. Tap water in Himarë is not drinkable, but bottled water is easy to buy nearby. And keep an eye out for the bunkers: once you spot your first, you will see them everywhere.

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