I never planned to cycle across a region of Italy. I don’t even own a bike. My cycling history could be summed up in two panicked rides on London’s hire bikes and a few spin classes I usually skip halfway through. But Puglia had always been on my wish list - and when I discovered I could do it on an e-bike, with my luggage carried ahead and navigation sorted, it suddenly didn’t seem so far-fetched.

So I signed up for UTracks’ Cycle Puglia self-guided tour, packed more snacks than Lycra, and told myself I could bail out by day three.

I didn’t.

Day 1: Alberobello: Tiny Houses and Big Doubts

We arrived in Alberobello the day before the ride began. If you’ve seen photos of those cone-roofed houses - the trulli - they really are that cute in person. I was lucky enough to stay in one for the night (you’re not always guaranteed a trullo, but it’s worth asking), and it felt like sleeping in a hobbit house built by a minimalist.

That night, I stared at my e-bike like it might bite me. It looked heavy and mechanical, and I was convinced it would drag me sideways off the road. My partner tried to reassure me by saying “just stay upright and pedal.” Thanks.

Day 2: First Pedals and Finding a Rhythm

The ride from Alberobello to Ostuni was beautiful. Winding country lanes, trulli scattered across the hills like white beehives, and barely another tourist in sight. Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Cisternino - each town more postcard-perfect than the last.

By the time we reached Ostuni, all whitewashed and sunlit on its hilltop, I felt tired but triumphant. And hungry. Dinners became a daily celebration.

Day 3: Primitivo Wine and a Lunch I’ll Never Forget

Riding south to Manduria, the landscape changed - redder soil, fewer hills, and rows upon rows of gnarled olive trees. Oria was a highlight, with its medieval castle. That night, we found a little enoteca and ordered whatever the locals were eating. The Primitivo wine was perfect.

Day 4: Gallipoli and a Perfect Swim

This was the longest day at 70km, but also one of the easiest to love. The Ionian coast, Porto Cesareo for lunch, and then Gallipoli. The old town sits on an island, and as soon as we arrived, we ditched our bikes and headed straight for the sea.

Day 5 to 7: The Adriatic Beckons

Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto and finally Lecce. Coastal views, café stops, and peaceful swims became our rhythm. Our final ride past the Alimini Lakes was calm, green, and full of flamingoes. Lecce’s baroque glow was the perfect finish.

What I Learned

I didn’t become a cyclist in Puglia. But I did fall in love with travelling this way: slowly, fully, and with plenty of snack stops. And I felt incredibly supported - from the GPS app to the luggage transfers to the reassuring voice on the help line when I locked us out of the bikes.

Would I do it again? Yes. But only if there’s wine at the end.

Thinking about giving it a go? Here’s what helped me:

• Get the e-bike: You won’t regret it. Especially when the headwinds hit.
• Don’t overpack: Fit a light jacket and snacks into your day pack as the daily bag transfers takes care of your main luggage.
• Expect shut towns: Plan snacks around the midday closures.
• Trust the GPS app: It made the trip feel guided but independent.
• Be kind to your saddle area: You’ll understand by day three.

If you're even a little bike-curious and dream of seeing Italy differently, Puglia is the perfect place to try. Flat(ish), friendly, and full of flavour – and with the right support, even people like me can cycle it.

Explore Puglia