From Trulli to the Sea: Cycling in Puglia

One nervous cyclist's tale of olive groves, e-bike salvation and the joy of discovering Puglia’s quiet coastal roads and timeless villages. Keep reading to hear about Tali's unforgettable trip through the heel of Italy.

I never planned to cycle across a region of Italy. I don’t even own a bike. My cycling history could be summed up in two panicked rides on London’s hire bikes and a few spin classes. But Puglia had always been on my wish list - and when I discovered I could do it on an e-bike, with my luggage carried ahead and navigation sorted, it suddenly didn’t seem so far-fetched.

My partner is a cyclist so this felt the best way for us to experience Puglia together.

I signed us up for UTracks’ Cycle Puglia self-guided tour, packed Lycra, a gel seat cover and told myself I could bail out by day three.

I didn’t.

Day 1: Alberobello – Tiny Houses and Big Doubts

The first day we spent the night in Alberobello. If you’ve seen photos of those cone-roofed houses – the trulli – they really are that cute in person. We were lucky enough to stay in one for the night (you’re not always guaranteed a trullo, but it’s worth asking), and it felt like sleeping in a hobbit house.

Day 2: First Pedals and Finding a Rhythm

Received my e-bike this morning. It looked heavy and mechanical, and I was convinced it would drag me sideways off the road. My partner tried to reassure me by saying “just stay upright and pedal.” Thanks.

The ride from Alberobello to Ostuni was beautiful. Winding country lanes, trulli scattered across the hills like white beehives, and barely another tourist in sight. Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Cisternino – each town more postcard-perfect than the last.

By the time we reached Ostuni, all whitewashed and sunlit on its hilltop, I felt tired but triumphant. And hungry. Dinners became a daily celebration.

Day 3: Olive Trees and Primitivo Wine

Riding south to Manduria, the landscape changed – redder soil, fewer hills, and rows upon rows of gnarled olive trees. That night, we found a little enoteca and ordered whatever the locals were eating. The Primitivo wine was perfect.

Day 4: Gallipoli and a Perfect Swim

This was the longest day at 70km, but also one of the easiest to love. The Ionian coast, Porto Cesareo for lunch, and a swim along the way to Gallipoli. The old town of Gallipoli sits on an island, and as soon as we arrived, we ditched our bikes and headed across to watch the fishermen sell their catch straight off their boats, wander the cobbled streets, visit the many churches and admire the local pottery and crafts.

Day 5 to 7: The Adriatic Beckons

Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto and finally Lecce. Coastal views, café stops, and peaceful swims became our rhythm. Our final ride past the Alimini Lakes was calm, green, and full of flamingoes. Lecce’s baroque glow was the perfect finish.

What I Learned

I didn’t become a cyclist in Puglia. But I did fall in love with travelling this way: slowly, fully, and with plenty of stops. And I felt incredibly supported – from the GPS app to the luggage transfers and the wonderful accommodation we stayed in.

Would I do it again? Yes!

Thinking about giving it a go? Here’s what helped me:

• Get the e-bike: You won’t regret it. Especially when the headwinds hit.
• Don’t overpack: Fit a light jacket and snacks into your bike pannier as the daily bag transfers take care of your main luggage.
• Trust the GPS app: It made the trip feel guided but independent.
• Be kind to your saddle area: You’ll understand by day three.

If you're even a little bike-curious and dream of seeing Italy differently, Puglia is the perfect place to try. Flat(ish), friendly, and full of flavour – and with the right support, even people like me can cycle it.