Steven was the lucky winner of UTracks' 2023 trip giveaway, where he ended up winning a
along the final stage of the iconic Camino de Santiago. What a lucky duck!
Read on to discover Steven's fascinating insights of his trip as he recounts the physical, mental and spiritual side of this undertaking.
But as the morning wanes we hear roosters crowing, we see dogs laying out in the sun, cow bells are ringing and the originally anxious travelers are now starting to spread out, relax their pace and realize that there are MANY more stamp stands, bodegas and bathroom opportunities along the way.
We now hear more laughter, see travelers stop to take in the surrounding natural beauty, meditate in lavish meadows and drink more beer at various pit stops.
Then, in the distance, a wide river and a modern bridge to a white washed town with black tiled roofs and a stunning 12th century cathedral in the center - PORTOMARIN. We spend the rest of the day on a terrace with potted flowers and inviting soft cushions. We talk about the day and our initial impressions.
Day 3: Portomarin - Palas des Rei 21 km
Today starts with having to make a choice.
Just like in life…making choices is hard! Especially when everyone else is going in a different direction.
The flow of the travelers - now deservingly called “pilgrims” or “peregrinos” is turning left. We stand and look at the marker and contemplate our journey…But just like in life, taking a choice that is against the flow can be scary and yet soooo rewarding.
The “coplimentario” route - or the “alternate” route takes us thru a foggy enchanted forest of oak trees and valleys still covered in morning dew.
Our very few companion travelers on this route are subdued and quiet, very unlike the group we soon join back on the main trail. We see the most memorable topography of the entire trip so far. We congratulate each other for making this choice.
As we finally join the main stream, the sun peaks out as if it has always been there on their side of the journey and the walk becomes very ordinary. Just a hike. Apart from some serious inclines, it is totally uneventful. The smell of eucalyptus trees growing in clusters is refreshing. We busy our selves with noticing the flora and fauna on the road side. Mint grows in abundance on the side of the road and so does dill. Lemon scented rubber trees and fuzzy chestnut trees. And so so many butterflies!
There are far fewer stamp stands on the way today.
Fewer visual distractions…and so the time for reflection comes in the form of a local stamp stand lady who asked us a simple question: why did you come to walk the Camino?
“I dont know”- I reply, “I hope to find out why”.
A group of young men behind us is deep in conversation - one from Madrid is explaining the meaning of the Camino de Santiago to a young man from Japan.
Honestly, the first of MANY versions (and we have read and heard so many) that actually makes sense. I will repeat this version to my kids. The Japanese traveler is WOWED with this explanation and in perfect English now impresses the young man from Madrid with his career path in the gaming industry and its the Madridian’s turn to be WOWED.
These men come from different corners of the world and yet have found a common moment in today’s journey. They might continue to walk together and become life long friends or might never see each other again. They are walking behind us so we never see their faces. And I find I don’t want to turn around. I don’t want to see what they look like. Let that part remain in my imagination. I will never recognize them out of a crowd, but I will repeat their story in detail every time I tell my family and friends about the many different travelers we met on our Camino Journey.
We come to rest and eat at a charming inn where the owner - a former restauranteur from Madrid, welcomes us with open arms, feeds us and tells us we MUST have a siesta after our abundant and delicious meal and then walk yet another 2 km off the trail to the 12th century Church of Vilar de Donas. We fall into crisp white sheets for a few hours and then begrudgingly make our way to the church. Haven’t we walked enough? This better be worth it!
An ancient looking man - the innkeeper told us about and that he is “as old as Jesus” - tends to the church. He speaks Galician Spanish that's hard to understand and yet his enthusiasm and the few words we catch while he stamps our pilgrim’s passports enrich our experience and make it more memorable.
The monastery was donated to this Order in the late 12th century. Its main purpose was to watch over the St. James Way, and to protect pilgrims from attackers. There are frescoes on the walls that depict ladies and gentlemen with their medieval headdresses, they allow us a glimpse of life at the time when the church was being decorated.
There are also several headstones and tombs inside the church, belonging to knights of the Order of Santiago. They tell the story of the church and its close association with the St. James Way. Totally worth it.
A white Fiat pulls up to the church entrance and honks… its our innkeeper, he took pity on us and came to get us.
Day 4: Palas de Rei to Melida 17km
Buen Camino!
By now this is a VERY familiar greeting.
It is used as a Hello from fellow pilgrims as you pass them on the trail…as an open arm welcome from cafe owners…as a warm farewell when you leave any establishment or stamp stand…or just as a smile from a well wisher passing by.
Our innkeeper used those words as he sent us on our way to Melida this morning! Late last night he told us stories of his Camino journey and how he ended up buying this inn when “he found his way” on the 24th day of his pilgrimage journey on the Camino Frances. It has changed his life he said. We exchanged email addresses and hugged warmly - he was our family for a night. We promised to keep in touch.
Our walk seemed shorter and smoother today. More even. There were far fewer pilgrims…where were they all? Have they all found their rhythm in different ways and at different hours? We certainly did..
The quiet, solitary walk was a different spiritual experience… no distraction from thoughts trickling through - memories, reflections.
We passed through many oak tree tunnels that afforded us long stretches of shade from the scorching sun.
Were they really there many centuries ago when the original pilgrims walked these paths?? Or were they planted more recently to offer shade to the weary travelers?
As we come closer and closer to Melida, the dense oak forest paths give way to industrial parks with automobile factories on either side. The city appears at the end of a tiled road and in visual disarray - the buildings are covered in soot and the facades are crumbling….this scene is soon forgotten as we come thru a cluster of pilgrims drinking beer and eating huge plates of “pulpo” - a local love for octopus - be it grilled, steamed, drowned in oil, garlic and paprika. The smell coming from the kitchen is intoxicating. It feels festive and inviting and we join in.
Day 5: Melida to Arzua 15.5km
Today is a relatively short walk.
There are many walking with us today.
There is a lot of chatter.
They are loud, the constant chatter feels disrespectful to those of us who are walking in our own thoughts …. so we realize how wonderful yesterday’s gift of the solitary walk was. This makes us appreciate and understand how important it is to isolate ourselves sometimes, to leave the noise of the big cities we live in, to leave the company of the many friends, relatives and obligations and to fill our mind with quiet reflection and thought. What happens when we are devoid of a constant flow of visual and auditory stimulation? We go looking for what we eventually crave! Isn’t this when we find inspiration in our surroundings and when we become our MOST creative selves?
We walk into Arzua - our heads filled with this thought.
Our inn for the night afforded us a creative gift - what a visual feast!!
In a sea of grey and ordinary - another post war town devoid of any unique character - this refreshing gem had us peeking around every corner for more and more design and architectural delights!
Day 6: Arzua - Rua - Lavacolla - 30km
Today’s walk was supposed to be to Rua - 18km. However, due to busy season, or lack of space in the small town of Rua …. We ended up having to walk 30km to a quaint inn in Lavacolla - which is only 11 km from our final destination Santiago de Compostela.
So the question arises - if we had our “druthers” would we have chosen the shorter walk of 18km to Rua and then 21km to Santiago de Compostela tomorrow?
Rua - looks just like Melida or Arzua - a street of dusty post war buildings - not much charm - but breaks up the long walk..
Was it a terrific happenstance which gets us to Santiago earlier tomorrow, gives us more time to explore that wonderful ancient city as we have by now had our fill of the Galician countryside and the small towns on the way?
We kept repeating “where there is 18km in us.. we can find 30km..” interesting how the human brain works. After the initial dismay - we only realized that morning how long our walk would be - we fell into a groove .. we walk we talk… the path was pretty and empty as most of the pilgrims turned off at Rua. We pass churches and cemeteries. More and more as we get closer to Santiago de Compostela.
We notice a denser saturation of pilgrim amulets and talismans along the path:
- Pilgrims boots with plantings in them decorated shop entrances, crosses, icons, coins, photographs of loved ones along with madonna images lost in shrine like formations, piled stones on the mile markers with ribbons and shells. Even some jewelry that no one seems to want to take from these sacred shrines!
Carvings in tree trunks, even graffiti (as much of an eyesore as that was - almost a visual imposition and yet an expression of sorts). Realizing that every individual walking these paths had their own journey and honored their achievements by leaving a bit of themselves along the way - physically or spiritually- it’s a very personal cathartic process.
We leave our past behind and start a new chapter.
Day 7: Lavacolla - Santiago de Compostela 11km
..Its drizzling.
The drizzle reflects our mood.
We are walking slowly this morning.
Because we are tired and we have blisters on our feet and our calves are burning. Or because we had so much excellent wine last night as we did every night of our journey… honoring the weary and hungry pilgrims of many centuries who were traditionally given wine and bread by the inn keepers as they trickled in …or because we know that the physical journey ends today and we want to savor the last few hours before we arrive at our final destination.
And here it is! The grand finale!
Although we had seen many photos, heard and read many stories... Nothing could have prepared us for the magnitude of emotions as we walk into Santiago de Compostela.
The breathtaking sight of the centuries old Cathedral overwhelms in many many many ways! Soooo many layers! How does the sun hit it just so? Why are we so elated? Why do we feel so little? The humming energy of the main square is so overpowering that we just want to stop and lie down on the age old stone piazza floor and stare.
This is truly a holy place.
Post Script:
To be eligible for your Compostela (Pilgrim's Certificate) you need to collect stamps along the way. While all accommodation provide stamps, they also come in various other versions:
- A man playing Gaelic bag pipes in full out costume
- A woman glueing little shells to our stamp and giving out free stickers with passages from the new testament.
- A man melting colored candles to make a waxed stamp and displaying random talismans for sale.
- Sometimes it’s just a ‘help yourself’ table with a stamp and a pen on it.
Thanks to Steven Yankiver for his detailed account of walking from Sarria to Santiago.
There are multiple ways to experience this final stage of the Camino de Santiago: