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Your walk begins in Hawes, the bustling market town at the heart of Wensleydale, famous for its traditional rope-making and Wensleydale cheese. From here, the route takes you through the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, passing through Keld, a peaceful village tucked into the hills of remote Upper Swaledale, where its stone buildings are a welcome sight after a day on the trails. Reeth, with its inviting tearooms and traditional pubs, reflects the area's rich lead-mining heritage, while Aysgarth is renowned for its spectacular series of cascading waterfalls along the River Ure. Most of the trails are well established and include sections of both the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast. The James Herriot Way is an excellent introduction to long-distance walking on these famous routes.
Besides walking through the Yorkshire countryside, the attractiveness and variety of the route is such that it could be easily classed the best short walk in England.
This beautiful 80 km / 50 mile circular walk in the Yorkshire Dales threads its way around the valleys of Wensleydale and Swaledale and over the mountains and moorlands between these two emerald dales. A walk designed to take in some of the countryside beloved by James Alfred Wight, the vet who wrote about his experiences in the Yorkshire Dales as James Herriot. These books became popular in the 1970s and 80s and spawned a film and a very popular television series 'All Creatures Great and Small'.
The Yorkshire Dales have often been coined as 'Gods Own Country' and with good reason, with a little bit of luck with the weather, you are treated to a beautiful landscape bursting with colour and light. The land encopasses the sleepy rivers punctuated by cascading water off of the limestone escarpments, the fields stocked with multiple sheep, the high moors, bristling with sedge, bracken and bilberry. Then of course there are the attractive local villages, small but bustling with farm and estate workers, walkers and visitors.
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12kg of CO2-e PP per day
(62kg of CO2-e PP entire trip)
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Day 1
Arrival in Hawes
Make your own way to Hawes, a charming market town nestled in the heart of beautiful Wensleydale, one of the quintessential Yorkshire Dales. Depending on your arrival time, you may have the opportunity to explore the town's traditional shops, cafés and picturesque streets. Hawes is also home to the famous Wensleydale Creamery, where you can discover the history of the region's celebrated cheese and perhaps enjoy a tasting. If time allows, you may wish to visit the Dales Countryside Museum or take a short stroll to nearby Hardraw Force, an impressive waterfall tucked away in a wooded gorge. Surrounded by rolling hills and classic Yorkshire Dales scenery, Hawes is a lovely place to relax and soak up the atmosphere before your walk begins. Accommodation: Herriots Guesthouse is a 200 year old building and is centrally located. All rooms are ensuite.
Meals: Nil
Day 2
Hawes to Keld via Great Shunner fell 20.6 km /13 miles
Total ascents: 869m / Total descents: 789m Time walking approx. 5 1/2 hours, allow 7 hours. Possibly the hardest day on this Yorkshire Dales walking holiday. Leaving Hawes, the trail climbs up the side of Great Shunner Fell following the famous Pennine Way. At 716 metres it is the third highest mountain in Yorkshire. The dominating rock type in the area is limestone, but there are millstone grit outcrops and coal seams have also been worked on its slopes. In clear weather the summit affords spectacular views of Wensleydale to the south, Ribblesdale to the south west and Swaledale to the north, as well as views into Cumbria and County Durham beyond the A66. The once boggy walk has been much improved with the laying of flagstones along the trail in 1996. From the cross walled summit wind break there is a steep walk down into the sleepy village of Thwaite. This is a good place to have a cream tea before continuing across Kisdon hillside. You can also visit the very pretty little village of Muker with its traditional pub and wool knit centre. After the long ascent and descent from Hawes, one cannot rest on ones laurels, the path is steep and rocky, but gets you high above the deep ‘u’ shaped valley of Swaledale, one of the most picturesque sights in England. The path skirts the lower slopes of Kisdon Hill and then drops down again into the tiny settlement of Keld, sitting in a fold of Upper Swaledale and is the smallest and remotest place that we stay in during this circular walking trip. Accommodation: Set in magnificent moorland countryside of Gunnerside Estate, at the head of Swaledale, Keld Lodge sits at the crossroads of three renowned long distance hikes; The Coast to Coast, The Pennine Way and The Herriot Way.
Meals: B
Day 3
Keld to Reeth 17.7 km / 11 miles
Total Ascents: 697m / Descents: 808m. 5 hours walking time Allow 6-7 hours. After leaving Keld, the path drops steeply to cross the footbridge over the River Swale and then leaves the Pennine Way to join the Coast to Coast for the day. From the old mining house at Crackpot Hall overlooking the wide 'u' valley of Swaledale, the path passes the waterfalls of Swinner Gill Lead Mines, before steeply ascending to cross the Lownathwaite and Gunnerside Moors, then a steep descent through the 'hushings' (water scoured slopes where minerals were collected) to the ex lead mine workings at Gunnerside Gill. A steep climb up through Buntons Hush, brings you over the top of Melbecks Moor full of mining reminders with giggling grouse fluttering away from you into the heather. The track improves and you pass the Old Gang Smelting Mines, where the best preserved relics of the lead mining industry are preserved. This leads down past 'Surrender Bridge' where the opening sequence of the first couple of series of 'All Creatures Great and Small' were filmed. Finally the trail heads up into the countryside above Healaugh and then Reeth with gorgeous potential views across the ever-widening Swaledale. Finally a nice easy descent off the moors into Reeth for some well earned refreshment. Accommodation: Several places may be used including an old-fashioned pub or a couple of B&Bs around the green.
Day 4
Reeth to Aysgarth 22.3 km /14 miles
Total Ascents: 739m / Descents: 739m. 5 hours 45 minutes walking time, allow 6 - 7 hours. The longest day of this circular walking trip in Yorkshire, but the beauty doesn't let up. Passing out of Reeth, the way crosses the Arkle Beck before crossing fields of happy sheep to the old stone Grinton Bridge and finally leaving the River Swale. The church here was the 'Cathedral of the Dales' and people had to carry their dead miles across the moorlands to have them buried in the consecrated ground. A steep climb out of Grinton is followed by a good bridleway trail up and over High Harker Hill (466m) offering fantastic views across Swaledale. The trail winds around grouse shooting estates and moors changing direction as you drop into remote Apedale, passing Dent's House, a shooting estate lodge which is a particularly welcoming spot if the weather is poor. A final climb out of Apedale and then a descent back again into Wensleydale, hitting the well preserved bastions of Bolton Castle - cafe in the castle. The final section of the walk connects farm trails to the mixed woodland, festooned with bluebells in late spring, before finally hitting the Aysgarth Waterfalls then arriving in Aysgarth. *You may want to add an extra day to visit the National Trust Centre and the famous stepped Aysgarth Falls - a series of cascades on the River Ure. Beautiful pictures are possible. The village church is also very attractive, bustling with daffodils in spring and bluebells in April-May. Accommodation: Cornlee Guesthouse is a family run bed & breakfast in this quiet village. An upgrade is possible to a hotel nearer the falls.
Day 5
Aysgarth to Hawes 16 km / 10 miles
Total Ascents: 400m / Descents: 381m. 4 hours walking time, allow 5.5 hours. This last day is the easiest walk of the James Herriot Way, a jaunt down from Aysgarth passing the 'Edwardian Rock Garden' to join the sleepy River Ure which meanders around in its grassy dale, some little bridges and stepping stones aid progress before crossing the route of the defunct railway line and into Askrigg for lunch. This is a really pretty village which was used for some of the filming on the James Herriot series. There are a couple of pubs for lunch or teashops if you want something lighter. It is the only day where a village lunch is possible. From Askrigg the walk gets a bit hillier as you climb through the woods to examine the beautiful Mill Beck Falls, which may appear like a milk chocolate fountain due to the tannins in the peat off the moorlands. From here the walking route climbs through the fields of Helm, before gradually descending to the hamlet of Litherskew and village of Sedbusk before dropping steeply down to rejoin and cross the River Ure and past the National Park Centre and back into the small town of Hawes. Accommodation: Herriots Guesthouse is a 200 year old building and is centrally located. All rooms are ensuite. We will try to confirm the same accommodation as when you started this walking tour in the Yorkshire Dales, however we may have to use alternatives.
Day 6
Arrangements end after breakfast
After breakfast, depart for your onward journey.
What's included
What's not included
The hotels described are our usual accommodation, however if these are not available then alternatives are used. Rooms generally do not have baths, the main reason being that they take up a lot of space. Some hotels/guesthouses may have a separate room in the house where a bath is available to guests, but in the main it is showers. Note that for the dates of your tour we may not be able to get you into the accommodation described. We will endeavour to get you into a similar standard of accommodation nearby, but please appreciate that there is limited accommodation in rural England. Also, although we aim to get you into accommodations with ensuite rooms, this is not always possible. At a couple of places on your tour you may be sharing bathrooms, particularly if you are in a single room.
Some long days and steep climbs and descents. Generally however undulating. Mixed weather can be expected. Note that often the trails in the Lake District especially are steep and rocky at times. For reasonably fit walkers, with some experience of map reading in case the weather is poor. The trails are however generally straight forward to follow, involving a lot of farm and field tracks. Days cannot be shortened.
Per Person, Twin Share
Yes this trip follows a recognised route although it is not a UK National Trail. The route links a network of established footpaths, including a short section of the famous Pennine Way, taking walkers through some of the Yorkshire Dales' most picturesque countryside.
Subject to the weather, this is a beautiful walk visiting some very lovely sections of the Yorkshire Dales and associated villages which you may have spotted in the TV series 'All Creatures Great and Small'.
Generally dinner is served in pubs along this route. Hawes is the only place that is a bit bigger and which has a wide variety of eating spots. There may be some take-away places available in the other overnight stops, but a pub is the most reliable place for dinner, and they tend to be very good!
Most of the James Herriot Way follows well-established footpaths (eg. Coast to Coast and Pennine Way), although some sections cross open moorland and remote countryside where paths can be less distinct, particularly in poor weather. To help you navigate with confidence, you will have access to a tailored navigation app with your walking route mapped out, making it easier to stay on track. The app also works offline, so you can follow your route even in areas with limited or no mobile reception. Some basic navigation skills are still recommended, but with the app to guide you, you can focus on enjoying the beautiful Yorkshire Dales scenery.
This James Herriot Way walking holiday begins and ends in Hawes, a charming market town in the Yorkshire Dales. The most scenic way to arrive is by taking the Leeds to Carlisle railway to Garsdale station, followed by a short bus or taxi journey of approximately 15–20 minutes to Hawes. Alternatively, you can travel by train to Northallerton and continue by bus via Leyburn, or take the train to Darlington and connect with onward transport via Richmond.
At the end of your walk, you can return to Garsdale station by bus or taxi for your onward rail journey.
We recommend checking public transport timetables in advance, as services in rural areas can be limited, particularly on weekends and public holidays.
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