Cycling the Via Rhôna: Roman Ruins, Mistral Winds and Flamingos on the Way to the Sea
Roman theatres, hilltop villages, vineyards and flamingos, all reached by bike on gentle terrain. That's the appeal of the Via Rhôna Cycle Path: Provence to the Sea, a self-guided trip along one of the most varied sections of the Via Rhôna, the long cycle route that runs from the Swiss Alps to the Mediterranean. Over six days you ride from Orange to Sète via Avignon, Arles and Aigues-Mortes, covering 35 to 63km a day on flat to lightly undulating terrain. It's graded introductory to moderate.
Kate rode it on e-bikes with Tom, and came back with stories about the Mistral, Camargue flamingos and a few things worth knowing before you go. Here's Kate's story, in her words.
Orange: Roman Ruins and a Hotel Full of Teddy Bears
We arrived around lunchtime and walked from the station to our hotel, Hôtel le Glacier, where we could leave our luggage before heading out for lunch. Orange is a smaller town and wasn't overrun with tourists, which made it a pleasant place to wander. It's home to the Théâtre Antique, a UNESCO World Heritage Roman theatre and one of the best-preserved in the world. The entry ticket includes an audio guide and access to the Museum of Art and History just opposite, and the theatre is still used for performances today.
The hotel was quirky, welcoming and full of character. It's family-run, the staff all wore stripey tops, and there were teddy bears scattered through the bar and lobby. Reception doubles as a small gift shop of eccentric handmade items. Dinner there was very good and our room was huge, ideal for getting organised for the days ahead. Orange is the lead-in hotel for the trip, and you can pay a supplement to upgrade to 3 or 4 star accommodation, but I think this one more than does the job as a starting point.
Meeting the Bikes
The bike handover the next day was relaxed. A member of the team led us down a lane to a locked courtyard where the bikes were kept, and gave us a piece of paper in the front bag. When I asked if there was anything we should know, he said, "Be careful, because e-bikes in France are powerful." We took some extra time to pack our panniers and did a test ride around the nearby lanes before heading out.
The panniers turned out to be very spacious. We'd been away for a while and had plenty of luggage, but they swallowed both our backpacks and the excess, all within the 20kg per person allowance. The bikes were heavy but manageable once we got used to them. They were great on sealed roads, though on the gravel paths among the vineyards and on the descent from Les Baux the wheels wobbled noticeably. A more mountain-bike style wheel would suit that terrain better.
The battery sits at the back of the bike and is easy to remove. All but one of our hotels had a shed where the bikes were stored and charged overnight. We learned the hard way not to unplug a battery the moment the light turns green. It needs longer for a full charge, so follow the instructions.
Two tips if you're planning this ride. Bring a phone holder for the handlebars, because the GUIBO app is the only navigation you need and the bikes don't come with one. And find out how much the panniers will hold before you pack.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Mistral
Day two to Avignon offered a choice: the dedicated cycle path, or a detour through the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It didn't take us long to decide.
Leaving Orange was easy, on roads that weren't too busy, and after about an hour we reached the vineyards. We parked the bikes and walked up to the hilltop ruins. The village is full of small wine shops and tasting rooms, plus a lovely café where you can enjoy a glass of the local wine.
From there the route descends towards Avignon, and this is where we met the Mistral. It's an incredibly strong, gusty wind, and crossing open plains and bridges took a firm grip on the handlebars. We were very glad to have e-bikes. The Mistral is common in this part of France and makes for a tiring, sometimes painful headwind. Once we reached the banks of the Rhône canal, the ride became far more pleasant, a picturesque run into Avignon along the opposite side of the river.
The GUIBO route stops at the city walls, so you'll need Google Maps or another navigation app to find your hotel. The narrow streets climb towards the centre and can be crowded, so you may end up walking your bike over the cobblestones. It's 35.7km for the day.
Avignon: Popes, a Half Bridge and a Pastis
Avignon has plenty to fill a day. The Palais des Papes, home to the Popes in the 14th century, dominates the city and is one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe. Pont Saint-Bénézet, the famous half bridge from the song "Sur le pont d'Avignon", offers great views over the river.
We spent two nights here before the trip started, then took the bus to Orange (route 902, about 45 minutes, or the train from Avignon Centre takes around 20). I'd recommend doing the same. Arrive in the afternoon and leave early the next morning and there's very little time to see anything. Our extra nights gave us time to explore at a relaxed pace, to dine in the village square, and to take part in the French custom of a pastis before dinner.
Our hotel on tour, Hôtel le Médiéval, was run by two people with wonderful stories. The woman serving breakfast was from Wales and had ended up in Avignon after marrying a Frenchman, and the Americans at the next table were astonished to learn she was a native English speaker. The woman at reception was thrilled to hear we were from Australia, as she'd been born in Indonesia and had also moved to Avignon with a French partner. The bikes slept in a garage around the corner, and this was the one night we had to charge the batteries in our room.
St Rémy and the Climb to Les Baux
Day three was a big one. You can follow the right bank of the Rhône via Beaucaire on a mostly flat route, or head inland through St Rémy and the Alpilles to the hillside town of Les Baux-de-Provence. That second option adds around 340m of climbing, and we took it.
Leaving Avignon was relatively easy, and soon we were on quiet country roads. The steady incline to St Rémy took about an hour and a half, and the town is every bit as charming as promised. We had a delicious onion tart for lunch, then wandered the streets and soaked up the atmosphere.
From St Rémy we carried on into the Alpilles towards Les Baux, which perches dramatically on the rocky hills. The medieval fortress ruins have stunning views, and the narrow streets are lined with artisan shops, galleries and cafés.
The descent is steep and on gravel, and it needs extra care on a heavy bike. We then took the alternative route to avoid the busiest roads, but as we approached Arles we hit heavy traffic and some rather major roundabouts. We found the hotel eventually and were very happy to sit down to a cold drink after a long and eventful day.
Arles: Gladiators and Van Gogh
Arles is a beautiful city, and I would have loved more time to explore it, and to rest. The Roman amphitheatre, built in 90 AD and once used for gladiator fights, is very close to our hotel and is now ringed with cafés. It's a perfect place to watch the sun go down with a drink.
Arles is also closely associated with Vincent van Gogh, who lived and worked here for over two years and painted some of his most famous work. I'd have liked the chance to retrace his steps and see the Arles he put on canvas. If you love art and history, plan a rest day here.
Hôtel de la Muette is an old, medieval-style building with a narrow circular stairway up to the rooms. A friendly staff member walked us to a storage facility where the bikes could be locked up and charged. Our luggage was already in the room, which was large with a great bathroom. We were tired and asked whether we could eat at the hotel, and he arranged a simple meal for us, a French toastie, which was absolutely delicious. In the morning a large German school group had taken over the breakfast room and the teenagers had cleared most of the food. The staff made us coffee to take back to our room and restocked everything very quickly.
Into the Camargue: Arles to Aigues-Mortes
A section of the Rhône Cycle Path was being rebuilt when we rode it, so the route diverted onto several busy roads through farmland for about 35km. This was the least enjoyable part of the whole trip. There were no real places to stop, so we kept going until we found a spot to pull off.
We rejoined the official path near Port de Gallician, and from there the ride improved enormously. The route follows the Canal du Rhône à Sète through classic marshland, with our first views of the Camargue Gardoise, the western side of the Camargue. It was peaceful, scenic and very enjoyable, and we rolled into Aigues-Mortes to a hotel just outside the old walls.
If you can pronounce Aigues-Mortes correctly, you'll find a lot to see. The walled town is dominated by the 13th-century Tower of Constance, and the walls encircle the town with fabulous panoramic views over the salt marshes. Inside there's a lively food and wine scene. It can feel a little touristy, but it's still possible to find streets away from the souvenir shops, no pink flamingo keyrings in sight, where you can eat very well. (I did end up buying a pink flamingo keyring, by the way.)
Our hotel, Hôtel La Maison des Croisades, is family-run and sits right on the cycle path. There was no restaurant, so we picked up dinner from a nearby supermarket. It's only a short walk over the bridge into the walled town, which was busy with preparations for a rodeo the next day. We even saw some French cowboys arriving on the famous white Camargue horses.
Flamingos and the Sea: Aigues-Mortes to Sète
The final ride is the longest at 63.3km, and it was my favourite. We left after breakfast and joined the path directly outside the hotel, then rode through the Camargue's wide-open landscapes and waterways. I stopped to photograph the first flamingo I saw, not realising there were plenty more to come. The light was wonderful, with really muted tones.
Then the Mediterranean comes into view, with long sandy beaches easily reached from the path. We rode beside the Canal du Rhône and through Le Grau-du-Roi, a lively seaside town with marinas and waterfront cafés, and from there the path hugs the coast, with the sea on one side and shimmering salt lagoons on the other. It carries on like this for a few hours, and it's an easy ride. The path is mostly dedicated, with just a few stretches heading inland.
It was a very hot ride, so when we reached the beach we both jumped in the sea (I'll spare you the photos). The cool Mediterranean water was exactly what we needed. I particularly loved the smell of the ocean as we cycled, and although it was a long day, it's one I really enjoyed.
Sète is a lovely town and the hotel was easy to find. The Grand Hôtel de Sète sits right on the canal, with an open, airy lobby and a spacious breakfast room overlooking the foyer. We upgraded for this last night and had a great room with a canal view, a very comfortable bed and a well-appointed bathroom. It was a wonderful place to finish a fabulous trip.
Is This Ride for You?
We both really enjoyed it. The accommodation was great, the luggage transfers worked seamlessly (our bags were waiting at the next hotel every time, and only once was one not already in the room when we arrived), and each day brought a different landscape. The Roman history, the art and the food make it a ride that suits a lot of interests, not just cycling.
Fitness isn't the issue, but there are challenges. The Mistral can be fierce, the gravel and cobblestones are rough on a heavy bike, there may be a stretch of busy road if the path works are still underway, and navigation relies entirely on your phone. If I did it again, I'd add an extra night in Avignon and a rest day in Arles. For a self-guided week of Roman ruins, Provençal villages and flamingos, ending with a swim in the Mediterranean, it's hard to beat.