Traveller Tale: Walking the Haute Route Through the Swiss Alps
Seven days, five mountain passes, and a first proper view of the Matterhorn.
There are walking trips, and then there are trips that remind you why you fell in love with the mountains in the first place. The Haute Route through Switzerland is firmly the second kind. Allie from the UTracks team recently joined a small group of travellers on this guided hike from Le Châble to Zermatt, and came back with stories worth sharing.
The Haute Route itself is steeped in mountaineering legend, first walked by British climbers at the end of the 19th century. Today it's considered one of the classic alpine treks, and it's easy to see why.
Day 1: Le Châble to Cabane de Louvie
The trip begins with a cable car up to Verbier, and within the first hour you're already high in the mountains, crossing the Alp du Val de Bagnes with views of Grand Combin and, on a clear day, Mont Blanc. It's a gentle introduction by Haute Route standards: 11.8km/7.3mi, with 660m/2,165ft of ascent and 620m/2,032ft of descent.
The first night is spent at Cabane de Louvie, a simple mountain hut beside a lake that's every bit as beautiful as it sounds. About half the group couldn't resist a swim. At around 12°C/54°F, the water was bracing to say the least, but there's nothing quite like a freezing alpine lake after a day on the trail.
Day 2: Cabane de Louvie to Prafleuri
This is the day to be mentally prepared for. An early start and a big day out, 11km/6.8mi with 1,100m/3,609ft of ascent, crossing three alpine passes and the Grand Desert, a moraine-strewn stretch of dry glacier, before reaching the highest point of the trip at Col de Praz Fleuri, 2,965m/9,727ft.
The reward is real: this was the first day the group spotted ibex, often seen wandering these remote passes, and the glacial scenery along the way is the kind that makes the effort worthwhile. The refuge at Prafleuri, with ibex sometimes right outside, is a fitting place to rest afterwards.
Day 3: Prafleuri to Les Hauderes
A hike up the banks of the Dixence River leads to the Riedmatten Pass, and on a clear day, the group's first glimpse of the Matterhorn in the distance. From there it's down to the village of Arolla, followed by a transfer to Les Hauderes for the night, along with a very welcome hot shower after two nights in mountain huts. Distance for the day: 18.7km/11.6mi, with 870m/2,854ft of ascent and a long 1,550m/5,085ft descent.
The evening in Les Hauderes was a highlight in its own right: a proper hotel, a lively little village, and a spot at the local bar to watch the football.
Day 4: Les Hauderes to Grimentz/St Jean
After a short transfer, the day takes you hiking through flower-filled pastures to the Torrent Pass (2,919m/9,575ft), then on through the Moiry Valley to the Sorrebois Pass (2,800m/9,185ft), with breathtaking views of the Valais region's 4,000m+ giants: Dent Blanche, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn and Weisshorn. Distance: 10km/6.2mi, with 840m/2,756ft of ascent and 680m/2,231ft of descent.
A stop in the town of Grimentz for provisions rounds out the afternoon, before a transfer from the Moiry dam on to Saint Jean, where the group stayed at Cabane Bella-Tola for the night.
Day 5: Across the Meidpass to Grüben
A short transfer to Saint-Luc sets up another spectacular alpine day, crossing the Anniviers Valley before leaving it through the Meidpass (2,790m/9,153ft) and descending into Grüben, in the quieter, more remote Turtmann Valley. Distance: 11.8km/7.3mi, with 720m/2,362ft of ascent and 1,090m/3,576ft of descent.
Grüben itself has a distinctly German-Swiss character, right down to the evening menu, and another lake swim along the way was very much a trip highlight.
Day 6: Grüben to the Zermatt Valley
The Augstbord Pass, at 2,894m/9,495ft, is the main challenge of the day, with panoramic views over the Oberland and Valais regions. From there the route continues through St Nicklaus before arriving in the Zermatt Valley by bus or train. Distance: 18km/11.2mi, with 1,075m/3,527ft of ascent and 1,880m/6,168ft of descent (with the option to shorten the descent by cable car).
As Zermatt is car-free, the final approach into town is on foot, a lovely way to arrive somewhere completely different after nearly a week in the mountains.
Day 7: Zermatt and the Matterhorn
The final morning is shorter and easier, 6km/3.7mi, following a trail facing the Matterhorn's Hörnli Ridge, with sweeping views of Monte Rosa (4,634m). It's a fitting finish: the Matterhorn's first recorded summit attempt was made in 1857, with the first successful ascent by Edward Whymper in 1865.
After a few hours of walking, the trip concludes back in Zermatt in the early afternoon, with plenty of time for a final picnic lunch and a wander around town before heading home.
The Verdict
This is a genuine mountain walking holiday rather than a comfortable countryside stroll, and its Challenging grading reflects that honestly. Considerable daily altitude gains, up to 1,000m/3,281ft on the toughest days, mean a high level of fitness is essential, and the first couple of nights are simple mountain huts before accommodation becomes progressively more comfortable through the week.
But the variety across seven days is hard to match: mountain huts, cold lake swims, high passes, boulder fields, forests, small Swiss villages, and finally the Matterhorn itself. It's a demanding week, but an extraordinary one, and exactly the kind of trip that stays with you long after you're home.
Ready to take on the Haute Route yourself? View the Haute Route – Switzerland Guided Hike to find your next adventure.